When you go into a house that has glass tile installed in any section of the house, the first thing you would notice is its gleaming bright and radiant tones. Installing a Glass tile is very suitable for backsplashes due to its excellence, adaptability and toughness.
The adhesive thin set mortar allows for easy installation of the glass tile backsplash and helps to put it in a tight position on the wall surface. The glass tile mosaic do not need to be installed one after the other as the 12×12 inch squares tiles are tightly held together by a mesh lining.
Important tips
- You can use the laser line to make sure that your tile columns are all at the same level and also at the center. Even though laser level is not very important but it can also be useful during the installation of tile backsplash
- It is very important that you check for error or spacing problems and have them sorted out before installing a tile backsplash ; that is why it is advisable to invest adequate time and energy during the process of dry fitting prior to installation.
- In the case of glass tile mosaic , you have to refrain from cutting of tiles totally as well as cautious space arrangement.
Safety and preventive measures
Ensure that you switch off all the circuit connecting to the outlets of the backsplash during installation
Necessary equipment and tools you might need
- Laser level
- Hammer
- Scissors
- Tape measure
- Rubber mortar float
- Drywall knife
- Notched trowel
Necessary materials you might need
- 1-inch of mosaic glass tiles and semi blended thinset mortar
- Dry wall compound
- Scrap cardboard
- Painter’s tape
- Pieces of 1/2 or 1/4 wood
- Grout
- Plastic sheeting
- Caulk
procedures
- Firstly, check out the walls to make sure that the walls are smooth from holes and depression, if they aren’t, smother the countertop using plastic coating and fill up the depression and holes with sand using a sand screen (drywall). Make sure it is perfectly smooth and neat
- The base column of the tiles demands a little gap (1/8 inch) within the lower part of the line and the highest point of the surface . To create a spacer, use a solitary section of pieces of cardboard and fasten it to the surface using Painter’s tape.
- For the exterior parts of the surface, construct a ledger board by fastening 1/2 or 1/4 pieces of woods straight to the walls. Ensure that the ledger board fits the length of the cardboard space rather than the countertop.
- Using the measuring tape, map out the focal point of the tile establishment field and then set off the vertical line of the laser at the point.
- You’ve reached the part of setting up the horizontal spacing and the next thing to do is to spread out the tile on the surface. Try not to install half tiles in obvious places to avoid making your tile work look unclean and weird. For instance, if you are placing tiles in a room with a refrigerator on one side of the room and a corner on the other side, it is advisable that you start placing full tiles from the left-hand side and stop opposite or at the back of the refrigerator with full tiles too. However, outlets are more tolerant and hence the outlet face plate allows for coating (1 inch) in each direction. Using a scissors, carefully remove the mesh that joins the tiles.
- Hold one part of the tiles to the surface while allowing it to carefully rest on the cardboard bar. Hold the subsequent segment so it reaches one by eight inches underneath the lower part of the surface and covering the base segment and then figure out where to cut the tile lining, then cut the tiles carefully using a scissors.
- Next step is to place thinset on the wall using a notched trowel and then place the first tile row. Next, you apply grout using rubber grout float and then caulk the corners of the tiles.